Hogan and Wilson iron specs

[The23rdman]

Hi gents,

I figure that this is probably the best place to ask this question. I have sets of Slazenger Hogan Starbursts and PC5 that I'm refurbishing ready to play, but the lofts and lies are bound to be all over the place. Does anyone know what the original specs would have been?

Same question for the 80s reissue of the early 60s Dyna-Powered Staff Model.

I'm very grateful in advance for any enlightenment on these specs.

Dean

[LesMurray]

If you are on FB, join the Persimmon Golf Society page. There you can find a lot of good information about old clubs.

Lag has his specs published on this site for his lofts and lies. His are 6* flat so you can adjust upright from there. The lofts are pretty spot on except for the 2, 3, and 4 irons. His are 4* gapped whereas I believe most clubmakers made those with 3* gaps.

[lagpressure]

Are you looking to restore them to original specs or to play them out on the course based upon your swing etc?

[The23rdman]

If you are on FB, join the Persimmon Golf Society page. There you can find a lot of good information about old clubs.

Lag has his specs published on this site for his lofts and lies. His are 6* flat so you can adjust upright from there. The lofts are pretty spot on except for the 2, 3, and 4 irons. His are 4* gapped whereas I believe most clubmakers made those with 3* gaps.

Thanks. I am a member of that group, but nobody has been able to help.

[The23rdman]

Are you looking to restore them to original specs or to play them out on the course based upon your swing etc?

I'd like to try them at original specs and go from there.

[k2baloo]

I am struggling to find a spec sheet. But, in general, irons have 4* gaps and sometimes 3* gaps in the longest irons. Different companies had different progressions.

In the 50s, most pitching wedges ran about 52-53* loft. The clubs progressively got stronger from there. In 80s, it was more common for the PW to be in the 49-50* range. Sorry I can't help more, but finding the old spec sheets can be rough. Since your irons are 60s era, 51-52 degrees will probably be about right for the PW and then 4 degree gaps from there.

[LesMurray]

I have all my clubs with 4* gaps with my PW starting at 48*. I think if you wanted to be true to old school you will start with your PW somewhere around 48*-50* and do 4* gaps up to the 4 iron, then gap 3* to the 3, 2, and 1 irons.

For lies, start with PW at 64* then decrease 1/2 degree for each club. Your 5 iron should be right around 61* lie and 28* loft.

[k2baloo]

This topic is really interesting for me as some of my favorite irons are the Wilsons made in the 70s. It's hard to find published specs for specific models (I've looked a decent amount), but these were published in the 1974 Maltby Guide. They'll be pretty close to what you need, but obviously not exact to your models. The 1982 publication had the lofts 1 degree stronger per this other forum thread - https://forums.golfwrx.com/topic/1201832-1975-wilson-staff-dynapower-irons/. Older models could have had weaker lofts. My 54 spaldings were designed with a 49* 9 iron, I think. I thought I read that somewhere but could be making it up

club-loft-len-lie
2i 21* 38.5" 57*
3i 24 38 58
4i 27 37.5 59
5i 31 37 60
6i 35 36.5 61
7i 39 36.25 62
8i 43 35.75 63
9i 47 35.25 63
P 51 35.25 64
S 55 35.25 64

I have an old repair book at home I can compare with but it will probably be similar. If you're going to play them though, I say give them a hit and see which way you need to move things in terms of lie/loft and not worry too much about the exact specs. As Les mentioned, Lag has a spec sheet on the forum and sets up his stuff w/a 48* loft PW and flat lies. I found the weights on that spreadsheet pretty helpful. I also found about 61.5 degree lie for my wedges/9 iron and half degree steps down from there work really well (so my 3 iron, for example, is 58.5 degrees). This means my long irons are somewhat normal lies and short/mid irons are 1.5-2.5 flat. To each his own and I think some experimentation is necessary to optimize it.
Good luck!

[The23rdman]

Thank you all so much for your input. Yes, I've had the same problems finding exact lofts and will have to go with the industry standards for the time periods they're all from.

It was the 80s reissues I was most intrigued about as it's unclear if they released them with the same specs as the original 60s model or with slightly stronger lofts more in line with the standard 80s specs.